Basic knowledge of yarn
Yarn is a continuous linear object made of various textile fibers. It is fine and soft, and has the basic properties to adapt to textile processing and the use of final products. Yarn is mainly used for weaving woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, braided fabrics and some non-woven fabrics, and a few of them are directly in the form of linear textiles, such as sewing thread, plush thread, embroidery thread, thread rope and other miscellaneous threads.
Types of yarn
According to yarn material:
1. Pure spinning
Pure spinning is made of a kind of fiber material, such as cotton yarn, wool yarn, hemp yarn and silk yarn. This kind of yarn is suitable for making pure textiles.
2. Blended yarn
Blended yarn is made of two or more fibers, such as polyester and cotton blended yarn, wool and viscose blended yarn, etc. These yarns are used in fabrics that highlight the advantages of both fibers.
By yarn size:
1. Coarse tex yarn
Coarse tex yarn refers to the yarn of 32 tex and above (18 tex and below). This kind of yarn is suitable for thick fabrics, such as tweed and plain cloth.
2. ZHONGTE yarn
ZHONGTE yarn refers to the yarn of 21 ~ 32 tex (19 ~ 28 British yarn). This kind of yarn is suitable for medium and thick fabrics, such as medium plain cloth, gabardine, khaki, etc.
3. Fine tex yarn
Fine tex yarn refers to the yarn of 11-20 tex (29-54 British yarn). This kind of yarn is suitable for thin fabrics, such as fine cloth, poplin, etc.
4. Superfine yarn
Superfine yarn refers to the yarn of 10 tex and below (58 British yarn and above). This kind of yarn is suitable for high-grade fine fabrics, such as high count shirt, worsted close fitting sweater, etc.
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According to spinning system:
1. Worsted yarn
Worsted yarn, also known as combed yarn, refers to the yarn spun by combing process, including combed cotton yarn and combed wool yarn. The parallel straightness of fibers in yarn is high, the evenness is even and smooth, but the cost is high and the yarn count is high. Combed yarn is mainly used as raw materials for high-grade fabrics and knitwear, such as spinning, gabardine, tweed, sweater, etc.
2. Roving
Roving, also known as carded wool yarn or combed cotton yarn, refers to the yarn that is combed according to the general spinning system and spun without combing process. There are many short fibers in roving, poor fiber parallel straightness, loose structure, more hairiness, low count and poor quality. This kind of yarn is mostly used as raw materials for general fabrics and knitwear, such as woolen fabrics, medium and special cotton fabrics, etc.
3. Waste spinning
Waste spinning yarn is a kind of yarn which is spun with textile waste (waste cotton) or mixed with low-grade raw materials. The yarn is of poor quality, soft, unevenness, impurity and poor color. Generally, it is only used to weave low-grade fabrics such as coarse cotton blanket, heavy pile cloth and packing cloth.
According to spinning method:
1. Ring spun yarn
Ring spun yarn is a kind of yarn twisted by traditional spinning method on ring spinning frame. The inside and outside of the yarn are wound together, the yarn structure is compact, and the strength is high. However, the production efficiency is limited because the twisting and winding work is completed by a set of mechanism at the same time. This kind of yarn has a wide range of uses, and can be used in all kinds of fabrics, knotted fabrics and ropes.
2. Free end yarn
Free end yarn is a kind of yarn formed by condensing and twisting fibers in the flow field of spinning cup with high speed or in the electrostatic field. The twisting and winding of yarn are completed by different parts respectively, so the efficiency is high and the cost is low.
3. Rotor spun yarn
Rotor spinning, also known as rotor spinning, is the use of air flow to condense and twist the fiber in the high-speed spinning cup. Compared with ring spun yarn, the structure of yarn is fluffy, wear-resistant, evenness, bright dyeing, but low strength. This kind of yarn is mainly used for bulky plain cloth, flannelette and knitted fabrics.
4. Electrostatic yarn
Electrostatic yarn is a kind of yarn which is made by using electrostatic field to condense and twist fibers. The structure of the yarn is the same as that of the rotor spun yarn, and its use is also similar to that of the rotor spun yarn.
5. Vortex yarn
Vortex yarn is a kind of yarn which is spun by fixed vortex spinning tube instead of high-speed spinning cup. The yarn has more bending fibers, low strength and poor evenness, but better dyeing and wear resistance. This kind of yarn is mostly used for cashmere fabrics, such as flannelette, sportswear and so on.
6. Dust cage yarn
Dust cage yarn, also known as friction spinning, is a kind of yarn made by using a pair of dust cages to condense and twist fibers. The yarn has a layered structure. The twist of the core is large and the handle is hard. The twist of the outer layer is small and the handle is soft. This kind of yarn is mainly used in industrial textiles, decorative fabrics, and also can be used in outerwear (such as work clothes, protective clothing).
7. Non free end yarn
Non free end yarn is a new spinning method which is different from free end yarn. In the process of twisting the fiber, both ends of the fiber strip are held, not free end. This new type of yarn includes self twist yarn, air jet yarn and core spun yarn.
8. Self twist yarn
Self twist yarn is a new type of yarn with non free end. It twists two yarns by means of reciprocating roller. When the yarns are parallel and close, they twist each other to form yarn by the force of untwisting rotation. This kind of yarn has uneven twist and untwisted section on one yarn, so the yarn strength is low. It is suitable for producing wool yarn and chemical fiber yarn. It is suitable for fancy and suede fabrics.
9. Air jet yarn
Air jet yarn is a kind of yarn spun by twisting, wrapping and kinking the yarn with high-speed jet vortex generated by compressed air. The yarn structure is unique, the yarn core is almost twistless, the outer fiber is randomly wrapped, the yarn is loose, the handle is rough, and the strength is low. This kind of yarn can be processed into woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, and can be used for men's and women's jackets, shirts, sportswear and work clothes.
10. Core spun yarn
Core spun yarn is a kind of yarn which is spun with filament as the core and wrapped with short fiber. It has the advantages of both core filament and wrapped with short fiber, so that the yarn performance is better than that of single fiber. The commonly used core filaments are polyester, nylon and spandex, and the short fibers are cotton, polyester / cotton, acrylic and wool. Core spun yarn is mainly used for sewing thread, shirt fabric, burnt out fabric and elastic fabric.
According to yarn usage:
1. Woven yarn
Woven yarn refers to the yarn used to process woven fabric, which is divided into warp and weft. Warp yarn is used as fabric longitudinal yarn, which has the characteristics of larger twist, higher strength and better wear resistance; Weft yarn is used as transverse yarn of fabric, which has the characteristics of low twist, low strength and softness.
2. Knitting yarn
Knitting yarn is used for knitted fabrics. The yarn has high quality, low twist and moderate strength.
3. Other yarns
Including sewing thread, embroidery thread, knitting thread, miscellaneous thread, etc. According to different uses, the requirements for these yarns are different.
